posted on September 13, 2003 02:17:49 PM new
silverplate. My DH is the one that does the buying for us, and I am trying to educate him from what I learn here. We are both pretty good at toys, but are newbies in the silver and pottery and glass fields.
He tends to look for silver pieces that are heavy and solid. I thought I read once somewhere that silverplate was heavier than sterling, but I have been unable to find anything on that. I would assume that silverplate usually has more copper or zinc in it, that it is heavier.
So I would think the lightest metal would be aluminum or tin... then sterling... then silverplate... and last copper and brass.
posted on September 13, 2003 04:04:51 PM new
Should depend on what the base metal of a silverplated article is I would imagine. Generally sterling is lighter in weight and more pliable than plated ware.
buyhigh
posted on September 14, 2003 01:55:28 PM new
There is no absolute way to determine which is heavier. It depends on the quality of either. Some silverplate is quite light, because the base metal is very thin. Really good quality plate will usually be heavier than sterling. My rule of thumb "If it isn't marked sterling then I treat it as plate." Plate is exactly what it says. It is pure silver on a base mettal, usually copper/nickel
[ edited by sanmar on Sep 14, 2003 01:57 PM ]
posted on September 14, 2003 07:04:30 PM new
Buy yourself a gold / silver test kit and you will not have a proplem it only takes a few seconds to test silver.
[ edited by GoldMagnet on Sep 14, 2003 07:05 PM ]
posted on September 14, 2003 07:35:58 PM new
GoldMagnet,
Do you have a decent source for a testing kit? I've done a little searching myself, but I'd like to know if you've got a source you trust and where you get supplied at a decent price....
Thanks in advance for your help.
Kind regards,
Wayne
Trying to Make a Difference - One Satisfied Customer at a Time....
posted on September 14, 2003 07:48:09 PM new
Hi TheFamilyBiz
Wayne you can find in any good lapidary or silversmithing supply house. Try Indiain Jewelry Supply in New Mexico. I'll Look up some online sources for you in a little while and post them here. I have some auctions ending in a couple of minutes but I'll Be Back
posted on September 14, 2003 07:52:16 PM new
I had never heard of a silver testing kit. That sounds useful. I looked on ebay and yahoo, but couldn't find much info. I see there are bottles of acid, but I didn't see how they are used. And then there were pens, but they looked like they would damage the item.
Is there a kit that is feasible to take with to auctions and such?
posted on September 14, 2003 08:36:29 PM new
Goldmagnet....Thanks so much for that link. I never cease to be amazed at the wealth of information that is available on this board.
The light at the end of the tunnel will turn out to be an oncoming train.
posted on September 15, 2003 09:16:03 AM new
If you follow instructions there will be little or no damage. this is a great tool. it is very easy to use.
posted on September 15, 2003 12:05:57 PM newMy rule of thumb "If it isn't marked sterling then I treat it as plate."
Then you're missing out on European and Continental silver (various contents such as .800, .833, .835), not to mention old English, Scottish and Irish pieces. Also Russian, which is expressed IIRC in zslotniks. Japanese silver is often .950, which is a higher pure silver content than .925 sterling.
Our motto: Bright and shiny baubles for persons with low impulse control.
posted on September 15, 2003 04:58:47 PM new
Hello!
Please let me differ with some of the other responders.
Having dealt extensively with silver for 30 years, I would strongly advise against testing (except in rare circumstances).
Here are my reasons:
1) When testing silver or silver plate, you will get the same result, as even in silver-plate you are applying the acid to the silver portion that is there (albeit very thin). You will therefore get the same result.
2) What you are supposed to do (according to the directions of these testing kits), is file away at some "invisible spot", so as to get the plating off (if it is plated), and then apply the acid, which turns green if the underlying metal is not silver. The problem is, that there is no such thing as invisible, and I have seen thousands of pieces that were either ruined or devalued substantially because of amateurish testing.
I do suggest, that you learn to look at marks. In the case of American Silver (mainly post 1850), it will be marked "Sterling". If it is not, then it is not silver. If it is European, then it is more complicated, but feel free to take a picture of the mark and post it on this or other forums. You will save money, and above all not ruin some valuable piece.
With respect to all the other opinions (sanmar, et all)
